I`ve spent the last day and a half in Nara, Japan`s first ancient capital. Today I saw, oh nothing, just the world`s oldest wooden structure (Horyuji Temple), as well as the world`s biggest all-wood structure (Todaiji Temple, above). There are seven Unesco-designated World Heritage Sites here in Nara alone, and I don`t even know how many Japanese National Treasures. But forget about that: there`s also a few thousand tame deer walking around the temple grounds and parks and gardens. Do a Google image search for `nara` and `deer` and you`ll begin to get an idea. They`re considered sacred messengers of the gods, so nobody molests them. In fact, it`s quite the other way round -- one large male bit my crotch today while I was feeding him. Don`t worry, daijobu desu. Can you picture all the beautiful temples, buddha statuary, sacred primeval forests and graceful deer scattered throughout? Can you imagine what the result of all that is? That`s right: deer shit caught in the treads of your sneakers. I was walking with my guide today (an archeological student) and had just stated how beautiful it was here, when I stepped in a bunch of turdy marbles. Mendokusai! I realize now how the Japanese tradition of removing one`s shoes before entering one`s house must have started.
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